At a Glance
Glycolic acid and BHA (like salicylic acid), among exfoliating agents in skincare formulations, have their definitive edge related to different types of skin and skin concerns. An AHA, glycolic acid is the selective acid that efficaciously targets fine lines and uneven texture while bringing brightness because as soluble in water, its molecular size is far smaller. BHA, however, is good at penetrating pores to treat acne, blackheads, and excess oil, thanks to its solubility in oil. Both ingredients achieve great exfoliation in their methods, and skincare manufacturers will have to consider clearly how these products would suit the target market’s skin concerns.
Introduction
Formulation science is getting more advanced and sophisticated with every passing day in the world of skincare. Many performance-optimized products contain active ingredients such as glycolic acid or BHA (beta-hydroxy acid). Now, the skincare manufacturer has to make a wise decision as to whether to include glycolic acid or BHA, or both ingredients, into formulations through a sound understanding of the chemistry, benefits, and limitations as well as interactions.
This article examines the science, formulation possibilities, and marketing considerations of these two chemical exfoliants. By the time you are done, you’ll be in a position to decide wisely between glycolic acid versus BHA, using them together, or just figuring out which one is most aligned with your audience and product line.
Understanding the Actives
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is the most commonly used Alpha-Hydroxy Acid(AHA) in counter products for skin problems. It is derived from sugarcane and is known for its small molecular size, which allows excellent exfoliation at the surface level. “Is glycolic acid a BHA or AHA?” is a frequently asked question- the answer remains firmly in the AHA camp.
Glycolic acid is an exfoliant that loosens the bonds between dead skin cells so that they can be shed easily. Smoother, brighter, and much more even-toned skin is the result. Glycolic acid can work because it is water-soluble and thus has the potential to mainly act on the outermost layer of the skin to treat conditions like rough texture, hyperpigmentation, or early signs of aging.
What is BHA?
BHAs are generally known as salicylates derived from willow bark, it’s an oil-soluble acid that easily enters fatty pores and thus is used mainly in acne-targeted formulations. It is also anti-inflammatory and is well tolerated in sensitive skin types with acne problems.
This is due to the lipophilic nature that enables the acid to penetrate way beyond the surface into clogged pores and dissolve the sebum and dead skin cells responsible for breakouts. It also has antibacterial properties, which further accentuate the activity against acne. Hence, this is very much used in oily or congested, or acne skin products.
Glycolic Acid vs BHA: Performance Breakdown
Exfoliation Efficacy
- Glycolic acid works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and improving texture and tone. It is most suitable for skin rejuvenation and for superficial concerns like dullness and fine lines.
- BHA dissolves oil and sebum, unclogs pores, and keeps comedones from forming. In so doing, BHA is remarkably effective in targeting blemishes, blackheads, and inflammation.
Skin Type Suitability
- Glycolic acid: It works well on dry, dull, and mature skin types, promoting collagen production, in addition to this glycoic acid is found in many antiaging products.
- BHA is best for oily and acne-prone skin as it minimizes pores and inhibits excess sebum production.
Penetration Depth
- Glycolic Acid is a chemical that only works on the surface and is good for fine lines, pigmentations, and textural irregularities.
- BHA, on the other hand, penetrates deep and is good for blackheads, whiteheads, and active breakouts.
Formulation Versatility
- Glycolic acid, being an acid, is used in peels, serums, and toners with differing pH levels, while it performs well in both wash-off and leave-on products.
- BHA is also used in cleansers, masks, pads of exfoliants, and serums and would work across all these different modes of delivery.
Synergistic Use: Glycolic Acid and BHA Together
For manufacturers desiring to apply hybrid usage, the combined use of glycolic acid with BHA creates an excellent exfoliative experience. This would cover surface dead skin cells while removing deeper pore congestions.
Benefits of Combination Formulas
- Effective exfoliation for many skin layers.
- Improved texture, tone, and clarity.
- These will treat a longer list of skin conditions at one time.
- Better joint action than either alone
- Increased consumer attraction due to multi-functionality.
Formulation Considerations
- pH Balance: Maintain optimal pH (3.5–4.0) for efficacy without irritation. Glycolic acid is typically active at pH 3.5, while BHA is effective at a slightly higher pH.
- Concentration: Glycolic acid (5–10%), BHA (0.5–2%). Concentration affects both performance and irritation risk.
- Stabilizers & Humectants: Additions like hyaluronic acid or allantoin can mitigate irritation and enhance skin hydration.
- Encapsulation Technology: Useful for delivering acids with minimal irritation.
- Layering Compatibility: Glycolic acid and BHA together should be formulated with gentle actives and soothing ingredients to avoid sensitization.
Glycolic Acid vs BHA in Product Development
Regulatory and Safety Aspects
- Glycolic Acid: The FDA recommends a maximum of 10% in leave-on products and 30% in professional-use peels. Requires a warning label regarding photo-sensitivity.
- BHA: The maximum suggested by the FDA for leave-on applications is 2%. In Europe, lower concentrations are required, and warning labels are mandatory.
Target Demographics
- Glycolic Acid: Crucial medically and phenomenally marketed for aging and hyperpigmentation concerns in the above 30 age brackets.
- BHA: Appeals to adolescent and young adult populations with oily or combination skin and to acne-prone skin.
Product Formats
- Glycolic Acid: Night creams, resurfacing serums, brightening masks, and AHA toners.
- BHA Products: Acne cleansers, anti-blemish serums, spot treatments, and exfoliating pads.
Difference between Glycolic Acid (AHA) and BHA (Salicylic Acid)
| Criteria | Glycolic Acid (AHA) | BHA (Salicylic Acid) |
| Molecule Type | Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA) | Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA) |
| Solubility | Water-soluble | Oil-soluble |
| Best For | Dry, sun-damaged skin | Oily, acne-prone skin |
| Exfoliation Type | Surface exfoliation | Deep pore exfoliation |
| Skin Penetration | Limited to upper layers | Penetrates pores |
| Common Products | Peels, toners, serums | Cleansers, toners, spot treatments |
| Irritation Potential | Higher for sensitive skin | Generally gentler |
Market Trends and Consumer Preferences
Trending Product Claims
- “Gentle yet effective exfoliation”
- “Brightens skin tone”
- “Reduces pore size and acne”
- “Suitable for sensitive skin”
- “Clinically tested” and “Dermatologist-approved”
Consumer Demand
- Clean beauty formulations
- Cruelty-free, vegan-friendly ingredients
- Transparent sourcing and sustainable packaging
- Multifunctional actives to reduce the number of products in routines
Also Read: Formaldehyde in Beauty Products: Why It’s Still Used & What You Need to Know?
Cost and Sourcing Considerations
Raw Material Costs
- Due to its intended uses requiring almost 100% purity, glycolic is one of the more costly acids owing to its high standards for purity and complexity of manufacture.
- BHA is relatively inexpensive and exists in synthetic and natural forms.
Manufacturing Challenges
- The precise formulation and buffering systems are needed because both acids are pH-dependent.
- Compatibility with other active ingredients must be considered.
- Stability consideration during the manufacture and optimization of shelf life.
Case Studies and Industry Use
Glycolic Acid in Luxury Brands
- Especially spoken of in premium lines like Drunk Elephant, Sunday Riley, and The Ordinary
- Known for their anti-aging and skin brightening properties
- Mainly used in combination with peptides and antioxidants
BHA in Mass-Market Products
- Available as topical acne treatment such as Neutrogena and CeraVe
- Adored for its successful management of oily and congested skin
- Typically combined with soothing ingredients such as niacinamide and green tea
Multi-Acid Success Stories
- Brands like Paula’s Choice and Glow Recipe create cults out of glycolic acid and bhh
- It has proven clinical, as well as consumer testimonial evidence, for visible changes in skin texture, clarity, and tone within weeks.
Final Thoughts: Which Should You Choose?
The choice between glycolic acid and BHA ultimately depends on product objectives and target audience. Glycolic acid will be preferred if your target market concerns itself with anti-aging, skin brightening, and luxury skincare. Instead, BHA is suitable for potential formulations that will appeal to acne-prone audiences focusing on blackheads and oily skin problems, much more younger and more pouty audiences.
For the brand seeking to bake a good exfoliating product, the fine combination of glycolic acid with BHA will probably address a wider variety of solutions to skin problems. It’s a matter of how these two work together by meeting customer needs and informing brand positioning against competition within a skincare context rather than ‘which is better’ on its own.
Elchemy helps you source the highest quality glycolic acid and BHA. It boasts a global network and regulatory expertise, which is involved in innovation, so it can develop high-end formulations for skincare brands just like yours.
