What Are AHAs and BHAs?
Both AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are chemical exfoliants used in skincare, but they serve slightly different functions and cater to different skin concerns.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs are water-soluble acids typically derived from fruits or milk. They work primarily on the skin’s surface by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. The result is smoother, brighter, and more even-toned skin.
Common AHAs in skincare include:
- Glycolic acid (from sugar cane)
- Lactic acid (from milk)
- Mandelic acid (from almonds)
- Malic acid (from apples)
- Tartaric acid (from grapes)
AHA Benefits:
- Boosts skin radiance
- Fades dark spots and hyperpigmentation
- Improves texture and fine lines
- Enhances product absorption
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
BHAs, in contrast, are oil-soluble. This property allows them to penetrate deeper into the pores, making them particularly effective for oily and acne-prone skin.
Salicylic acid is the most commonly used BHA in skincare.
BHA Benefits:
- Clears clogged pores
- Reduces acne and blackheads
- Controls excess oil
- Calms inflammation
AHA vs. BHA: Key Differences
Understanding the AHA vs. BHA debate starts with analyzing their structure, solubility, and function.
| Property | AHA | BHA |
| Solubility | Water-soluble | Oil-soluble |
| Source | Fruits, milk | Willow bark, synthetic |
| Penetration | Works on skin’s surface | Penetrates deep into pores |
| Best for | Dry, dull, aging skin | Oily, acne-prone skin |
| Examples | Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic | Salicylic acid |
| Exfoliation | Gentle to moderate | Moderate to deep |
| Anti-inflammatory | Mild | Strong |
| Risk of irritation | Higher | Lower for most users |
What’s the difference between BHA and AHA?
Put simply, AHAs exfoliate the surface of the skin, making them ideal for improving tone, texture, and pigmentation. BHAs go deeper, cleaning out pores and controlling sebum—making them perfect for treating acne and oily skin.
How Skincare Brands Can Use AHAs Effectively?
1. AHAs in Daily Exfoliants
AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid are often formulated into daily exfoliating toners or lightweight peels. These products target dull skin and aim to smooth rough texture.
Formulation Tip:
Use glycolic acid between 5–10% for daily exfoliants, paired with soothing ingredients like panthenol or hyaluronic acid to offset potential dryness.
2. Brightening Serums with AHAs
Lactic and mandelic acids are less irritating than glycolic and are often used in serums that focus on skin brightness and clarity.
Ideal Pairings:
- AHAs + niacinamide for dullness
- AHAs + licorice root extract for pigmentation
3. Anti-Aging Creams
AHAs help fade fine lines by increasing cell turnover. Products targeting mature skin often combine AHAs with retinoids or peptides for synergistic results.
Use Case Example:
- Night creams with 8% glycolic acid, peptides, and ceramides
How Skincare Brands Can Use BHAs Effectively
1. Acne Cleansers and Gels
Salicylic acid is a go-to ingredient in acne-focused products. A cleanser with 1–2% salicylic acid can prevent breakouts without over-drying.
Formulation Tip:
Pair BHAs with aloe vera or allantoin to reduce irritation in leave-on products.
2. Scalp Care Products
BHAs aren’t just for facial care. Salicylic acid is becoming popular in shampoos and scalp exfoliants, helping to treat dandruff and oily scalp buildup.
3. Blackhead Control Serums
Leave-on BHAs work best in targeting blackheads. Combine salicylic acid with zinc or niacinamide for pore-tightening and sebum control.
Can AHA and BHA Be Used Together?
Yes—AHA and BHA can be used together, but with care.
In combination, they provide a full-spectrum exfoliating effect:
- AHA clears surface-level dead skin
- BHA unclogs deep-set oil and debris
How to Formulate Safely
If you’re combining both in one product, here’s how to approach it:
- Lower concentrations: 4% glycolic + 1% salicylic acid
- Buffering agents: Use calming ingredients like green tea, calendula, or allantoin
- Avoid overuse: Limit to 2–3 times per week for most users
Best Product Categories for AHA + BHA Combos
- Exfoliating masks
- Overnight peels
- Acne spot treatments
- Scalp scrubs
Example Ingredient Deck
| Ingredient | Purpose |
| Glycolic Acid 5% | Surface exfoliation |
| Salicylic Acid 1% | Deep pore cleansing |
| Aloe Vera Extract | Soothing |
| Panthenol | Moisture retention |
| Licorice Root Extract | Brightening |
Formulation Considerations: AHA vs. BHA
pH Balance
Both AHAs and BHAs are pH-dependent. Their effectiveness drops if the product’s pH is too high.
| Acid Type | Optimal pH Range |
| AHA | 3.0–4.0 |
| BHA | 3.0–4.0 |
Formulators must ensure pH balance for active delivery without causing irritation.
Stability and Packaging
- AHAs are sensitive to light and air. Airless pumps or opaque tubes are ideal.
- BHAs are more stable but still benefit from airtight containers.
Read More: Industrial & Commercial Uses of EDTA: Applications in Food and Cosmetics
Skin Types and Product Mapping
| Skin Type | Recommended Acid | Best Format |
| Dry/Sensitive | AHA (Lactic) | Creams, Lotions, Gentle Toners |
| Oily/Acne-Prone | BHA (Salicylic) | Gels, Foaming Cleansers |
| Combination | AHA + BHA | Serums, Masks |
| Mature/Aging | AHA (Glycolic) | Night Creams, Peels |
| Dull/Uneven Tone | AHA (Mandelic) | Brightening Serums, Toners |
Safety and User Education
Even well-formulated AHA and BHA products can cause irritation if misused. Brands must offer guidance on:
- Patch testing
- Frequency of use
- Avoiding use with retinoids, strong Vitamin C, or physical exfoliants
- Use of sunscreen (AHAs increase sun sensitivity)
Trending: Clean and Plant-Based Alternatives
Some brands are exploring plant-based or fermented AHAs and BHAs to appeal to the clean beauty market:
- Fermented lactic acid
- Wintergreen-derived salicylic acid
- Fruit acid blends (apple, sugarcane)
These are seen as gentler and more sustainable, aligning with eco-conscious consumers.
Global Regulations and Compliance
If you plan to sell internationally, ensure AHA and BHA levels comply with regional standards.
| Region | AHA Limit (%) | BHA Limit (%) | Notes |
| EU | 10% (leave-on) | 2% | Requires clear labeling and sun warning |
| USA (FDA) | 10% (recommended) | 2% | No formal regulation, but guidelines apply |
| Canada | 10% (leave-on) | 2% | Must include SPF advisory |
| Japan | 6% (preferred) | 1–2% | Favors low-concentration use |
Branding and Positioning Tips
If you’re launching a product with AHA or BHA, consider these angles:
- AHA = glow, anti-aging, gentle resurfacing
- BHA = acne care, pore control, oil balancing
- Combo = complete exfoliation, high-performance actives
Examples of Messaging
- “Powered by Glycolic + Salicylic for Dual Action Exfoliation”
- “Gentle enough for daily use. Strong enough for visible results.”
- “Say goodbye to dullness and breakouts in one swipe.”
Final Verdict: Choosing the Right Acid
AHA vs. BHA isn’t a competition. It’s a choice based on your brand’s goals and your customer’s skin needs.
AHA works best for:
- Brightening
- Anti-aging
- Smoothing texture
BHA is best for:
- Acne and blackheads
- Oily skin control
- Inflammation-prone skin
Both together?
Powerful—but must be handled carefully.
Formulators, marketers, and brand owners should ask:
- Who is the end user?
- What concerns are they addressing?
- How often will this be used?
- Can AHA and BHA be used together in this format?
Wrapping Up
- AHA vs. BHA isn’t about which is better—it’s about purpose.
- AHAs work on the surface. BHAs go deep.
- What’s the difference between BHA and AHA? It comes down to solubility, action, and skin type.
- Can AHA and BHA be used together? Yes, but only with low concentrations, balanced pH, and skin-calming agents.
For skincare brands, understanding these two powerhouses opens the door to smarter formulations, targeted solutions, and satisfied customers.
To know more, feel free to reach out to Elchemy!
